Parisian nights
What better place could there be to plan a business trip than Gay Paris, city of romance, densely packed with a feast of cultural and artistic heritage to gorge yourself on – or just the perfect excuse to sample some of the finest food and wine in the world. David Neville Williams stuffs himself silly
2008-10-12
It is some considerable time since Ernest Hemingway said: “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”
Today, though, this sentiment still reflects the remarkable, true spirit of the French capital. Paris has a unique sense of style and individuality reflected in its architecture, food, arts and language.
Who would dare to deny that it is the most glamorous, romantic city in the world? Its constancy is in its ever-changing nature, and shifting times, fads and fashions can never destroy Paris’s great character. They simply make it stronger. Who would have thought, for instance, that the controversial late-Eighties glass pyramid designed by Chinese-born American architect I.M. Pei would become as central a part of the Louvre as the vaulted rooms in the 16th century palace housing a vast array of art treasures?
People from all over the globe have flocked to Paris for centuries to enjoy what the city does best – food, fashion and culture.
So where does today’s visitor go for the best? If it’s your first time in “the city of 100 villages,” don’t write off the obvious attractions, such as the Eiffel Tower, the Champs Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, and the Latin Quarter, as too corny. They are all well worth a place on the busiest visitor’s itinerary.
If have only sufficient leisure time for one sightseeing trip, then make it the Louvre, which consists of a large palace and museum. The museum is the better part. Home to Leonardo da Vinci’s enigmatic Mona Lisa, the Louvre collections incorporate works dating from the birth of the great civilisations, right up to the first half of the 19th century, and include paintings, prints and drawings from Asia, Greece, Egypt and the Roman empire.
British actress Jane Birkin once admitted that even after 30 years in Paris she still loves everything from the sewers to the view from the Eiffel Tower of which she said: “It looks so beautiful illuminated at night. I like to sit in front of it on the carousel, eat candy floss, stare up and dream.”
Although the Metro is splendid (cleaner, more efficient and cheaper than the London Underground), possibly the best way to see the city is on foot. And, like Rome, Paris is eminently walkable. I doubt I will ever grow tired of walking along the banks of the Seine, from Place de la Concorde to Notre Dame cathedral on the Ile-de-la-Cite.
Your reward when you arrive is to stand on a bridge and watch a juggler, white-faced mime artist or outdoor jazz pianist before deciding which of the nearby bistros will supply you with that day’s lunchtime “fix” of traditional French onion soup followed by home-made lemon tart so delightfully sharp it makes your tongue tingle.
The serious business of dinner is another matter altogether. It should be planned in plenty of time.
Paris has so many restaurants the question is where to start. Personal recommendation can often be your best bet. I can recommend a splendid fish restaurant, Goumard, at 9 rue Duphot, 1st arrondisement. Opened in 1872, it is so devoted to seafood that other food is banned from the menu, although the staff will verbally present a limited roster of meat dishes. Much of the seafood is flown in from Brittany daily and specialities include crisp-cooked crayfish in its own herb salad, lobster soup with coconut and a grilled turbot salad on a bed of artichokes with tarragon.
For something delightfully different, sample a little bit of Italy in Paris by going to Sormani, at 4, rue du General Lanzerac, near the Champs Elysees. It is where cycling legend Lance Armstrong took rock star girlfriend Sheryl Crow to celebrate his record-breaking sixth Tour de France win in 2004. The chef-proprietor is Jean-Pascal Fayet, who is a devotee of the wonders of both black and white truffles, along with wild mushrooms. But be warned – you must book well in advance.
If you are looking for something less formal and not as expensive, just head for one of the Paris railways stations. You’ll always find a good selection of excellent bistros and brasseries nearby. Quite by chance, I recently stumbled on Mollard, opposite the Gare St Lazare at 115, rue Saint-Lazare, and could not fault either the excellent food, attentive service or décor, which harks back to the restaurant’s opening in 1867.
For imaginative vegetarian fare, try Man Ray, at 34, rue Marbeuf, 8th arrondisement, which was founded by movie star Johnny Depp and his all-star chums, John Malkovich, Mick Hucknall and Sean Penn. The live early-evening jazz is splendid and the blend of art deco and exotic décor makes every visit a sort of celebrity occasion.
Hotel choice? You could always follow Sir Terence Conran’s advice and book into the Hotel Montalambert, one of the first boutique hotels at 3, rue de Montalambert, which has been refurbished with a swish Christian Liaigre interior.
If you need a swim to kick-start your day, try the Hotel Costes, at 239, rue St Honore, which has a basement pool. It is cosy, with boudoir-style rooms and a restaurant that serves contemporary food. It has been described as “a den of opulence, dedicated to detail, intimacy and the expectations of the frighteningly wealthy.” So expect the unexpected…
For simple comfort and the sort of tranquillity that guarantees a good night’s sleep, you might prefer a more traditional hotel in a very central position. Near the Opera House is the four-star Hotel Le Pera, at 17, rue de Caumartin. Speak nicely to the lady at reception and she may even agree to give you Room 201, 301 or 401, all doubles with the added bonus of an additional separate and comfortable lounge area.
The question of mode of travel – train or plane – is always debatable. But if, like many people, you prefer the more relaxed atmosphere of rail travel and hate airports, then it’s got to be Eurostar for you. It now takes as little as 2 hours 35 minutes to get from London Waterloo to Paris. Walk-up fares start from £59 return but a far better option for the busy business traveller is the new Business Premier class, costing from £319 to £430 return, introduced on September 1 (2005). This allows just a ten-minute check-in before departure, fast tracking through passport control and a three-course meal en route. As part of this service, it is also possible to book a Business Premier ticket with taxi transfers for £556. This includes four cars, to and from the stations on both legs of your trip, and is well worth considering if only to avoid the interminable taxi queues at the Gare du Nord (and sometimes at Waterloo).
If you go by plane, you will not find it hard to fly from your nearest airport to Paris Charles de Gaulle, 14 miles north of the city centre, or Paris Orly, eight miles south. If you work in the City your best bet might be to fly Air France from London City to either Orly or Charles de Gaulle.
If you daren’t return home without a gift for someone special, Paris makes life very easy. For a tasty treat, head for Fauchon, on Place de la Madeleine, which offers the best of everything from teas to chocolates and condiments. You’ll find herb salts from the Languedoc and foie gras from the Dordogne.
For something very feminine, go to the Printemps store, at 64, boulevard Haussman, 9th arrondisement. Cosmetics experts reckon the beauty hall in this department store is the best in Europe. If you are left reeling by the choice available, head for the advice desk where you can book the complementary services of a personal make-up shopper to help you compile the ideal cosmetics kit.
That old stand-by perfume? Caron, at 34 avenue Montaigne, 8th arrondisement, decants its famous scents from crystal perfume fountains and is equally famous for its face powder, which Parisian beauties will tell you is the best you can buy. And at about £23 for a compact, it’s very reasonably priced.
Finally, remember that wherever you go in Paris, try to speak at least a little French. English is widely spoken, of course, but, despite what you may have been told, the Parisians generally like it if you try to communicate with them in their native tongue.
Top tips
If you yearn to relax after a hectic round of meetings with a night at the opera or ballet, tickets are best bought in advance. The French agency fnac ( www.fnac.com) has branches in its stores across Paris, as has the Virgin Megastore. From Britain, Liaisons Abroad ( www.liaisonsabroad.com) will arrange bookings for most major events in Paris.
To catch up on classic sights and sites, it is worth picking up a museum pass from the tourist office in Paris. At £13 for one day and £26 for three days, it will allow you to queue-jump with impunity at more than 70 museums and monuments in and around the city.
